Yesterday in bullet points:
Very, very steep slope right at the beginning (almost too difficult to push up.... quite a demoralizing start)
Headwind
More hills, but much less than today
Sleepy Hanne
Nice lunch in town square
Quiet roads in evening light
Only open Campsite is a nudist one: Ends up being the nicest and cheapest place we've been to so far

Now off to Crotone and then turning north again.